Q. & A. from Readers
November 2005
Hi,
I am trying to figure out the difference between solders. Is it best to stick with 60/40 or
63/37? When would you use 50/50 and maybe a lead free?
Thanks,
Robin
Hi Robin,
This is a really good question and one that I think all of our readers will find helpful. First, I
want to mention that an external rheostat is most helpful with temperature regulation for all
types of soldering.
60/40 is most commonly used both for foil and leaded projects. The first number- 60- refers
to the tin content and the second - 40- refers to the lead content. It melts at a temperature of
around 370 degrees Fahrenheit.
50/50 solder melts at a temperature of around 413 degrees Fahrenheit. Because of its
higher melting point, 50/50 solder is often used on the back (or inside) of a stained glass
project to protect against "melt through" when soldering the front. Because it spreads and
flattens out, 50/50 solder is often used when soldering lead came joints.
63/37 melts at the lowest temperature of around 360 degrees Fahrenheit. 63/37 is used
more often for decorative soldering because of its low temperature melting point and
because it cools quickly. For general use, it is also a good choice because it will allow you
to work quickly and leaved a nice bead. The more experience you have soldering, the more
you will enjoy this blend because of the speed at which it allows you to work.
Lead free solder (made mostly of tin along with other alloys) would be used for special
applications such as jewelry or something that would come in contact with the skin or be
accessible to children or pets. It doesn't flow very well and requires a higher soldering
temperature than all the above mentioned blends. It shouldn't be used with lead came.
October 2005
Jennifer,
I am having problems with big gaps in my copper foiled panels. I am trying to fill them up with
enough solder, but it keeps bleeding through to the other side. Do you have any advice to make
my pieces fit better?
Judy
Judy,
For copper foil, you should be working with a pattern that has pattern lines no thicker than 1/32". If
you are cutting your pieces with larger gaps than that, you need to use a ball point pen or at the
largest an ULTRA fine sharpie permanent marker to create your pattern lines. Once you have cut
and ground your pieces, and applied the foil, they should fill up the gap left as a seam allowance by
the 1/32" line.
If you are stuck in a place with your pattern where you must go forward and finish 'as is', use pieces
(cut with lead cutters) of lead came to fill in the gaps, flux and fill in with solder. This will hopefully
keep the solder from bleeding through. Also, try to work quickly for two reasons: 1) the solder will
stay cooler and become less liquid and that means less bleed-throughs. 2) spending too much time
in one area is going to quickly heat your glass up to temperatures that will cause a heat fracture.
Don't spend more than 15- 20 seconds at a time in one area. Leave the area and come back later if
more work is needed.
Good Luck with your project!
Jennifer
September 2005
As to your online class, it is tempting as I am coming back to glass work after 12 years !!!!
Would want the ability to email as much as necessary about technical issues and advice as
the class goes along. Let me know.
Thanks, Michael
Hi Michael,
It is nice to 'meet' you! I would love to help you with getting back into glass. You would
have unlimited e-mailing and phone help (we would set up by e-mail a time and day that
would work out for both of us for the phone meetings). Anything that is not clear by simple
definition, I will e-mail you a short video of a demonstration. I would make the calls to you
and there is no additional charge for calls within the continental U.S. It would be in 8 week
intervals. So, if you decide that is what you want to do just go to my website http://www.
kaleidoscopestainedglass.com , follow the Classes link, then Online Classes, and do the
‘buy it now ‘ for 8 weeks of instruction for $45.00.
Good luck to you!
Jennifer